Fabric woven from wool/polyester (PES) Murata vortex spun (MVS) blend yarn is a commercially viable proposition particularly on the basis of advantageous wear-resistant properties, compared with fabric made from traditional worsted ring-spun yarn. However, in some early industrial trials with fabric made from 45/55-blend wool/PES MVS yarn, significantly greater relaxation shrinkage was found relative to comparable worsted ring-spun fabric. It was noted at the time that the amount of relaxation shrinkage in MVS fabric could be reduced to a large extent by using steamed MVS yarn.In this study, the extent of variations in the dimensional and mechanical properties of fabric samples woven from a combination of steamed and unsteamed MVS yarn and equivalent worsted ring-spun yarn is examined. In general, greater hygral expansion and relaxation shrinkage were found in loom-state fabrics made from unsteamed MVS yarns, whereas the fabric made from steamed MVS and ring-spun yarns gave relatively low levels of relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion. Permanent setting of fabrics, by pressure steaming, was found to be more effective than yarn pre-steaming in reducing relaxation shrinkage levels of fabrics made from unsteamed MVS yarn. After pressure steaming, all fabrics showed similar levels of relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion.Permanent setting of the fabrics, by pressure steaming, resulted in similar levels of relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion, irrespective of the yarn production method; relaxation shrinkage fell to around 1% and hygral expansion increased by about 1%, relative to the loom-state samples. MVS fabrics were relatively heavier and fuller and had a firmer handle than the worsted ring-spun fabrics, reflecting the greater fabric weight, thickness and shear rigidity measured on these fabrics. These attributes are associated with different structures of the worsted ring-spun and MVS yarns used to make the fabrics.
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机译：与传统的精纺环锭纺纱制成的织物相比，用羊毛/聚酯（PES）村田涡流纺（MVS）混纺纱织成的织物在商业上是可行的，特别是基于有利的耐磨性。然而，在一些早期的工业试验中，用45/55混纺羊毛/ PES MVS纱线制成的织物，发现其松弛收缩率明显高于同类的精纺环锭纺织物。当时人们注意到，使用MVS蒸纱可以大大减少MVS织物中的松弛收缩量。在这项研究中，结合使用以下方法编织的织物样品的尺寸和力学性能的变化程度检查了汽提和不汽提的MVS纱线以及等效的精纺环锭纺纱线。通常，在由未蒸制的MVS纱线制成的织机状态的织物中发现较大的湿润膨胀和松弛收缩，而由蒸制的MVS和环锭纺纱制成的织物的松弛收缩和湿润膨胀相对较低。发现通过压力蒸汽永久固定织物比减少预蒸汽MVS纱线制成的织物的松弛收缩水平要好于纱线预蒸汽。压力蒸煮后，所有织物均表现出相似的松弛收缩和水合膨胀水平。通过压力蒸煮使织物永久凝固，无论纱线生产方法如何，其松弛松弛和水润膨胀的水平均相似。相对于织机状态的样品，松弛收缩率下降到1％左右，而水分膨胀率增长约1％。 MVS织物比精纺环锭纺织物相对较重，更饱满，并且具有更牢固的手感，反映出这些织物具有更大的织物重量，厚度和剪切刚度。这些属性与用于制造织物的精纺环锭纺和MVS纱线的不同结构有关。
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